Surfing is an extreme sport powered by waves.

Standing with both knees slightly bent, the surfer uses the center of gravity, shoulders and back legs to control the direction of the board.

The surfer waits prone or sitting on the board in the sea where there are suitable waves, when suitable waves gradually approach, the surfer adjusts the direction of the head of the board and paddles prone on the board in the direction of the waves, giving the board enough speed to keep the board in front of the waves, when the waves push the board to slide, the surfer rises up his body, with the legs naturally in front and behind him.

Surfing is although an extreme sport, all extreme sports actually have not extreme play, diving, surfing, paragliding. Diving, in the field of recreational diving, you just look at the fish at a depth of up to 30 meters and comply with all the diving regulations, it is very safe, its safety is even more than snorkeling.

But if you go into the technical diving field, pursuing large depths, to drill holes and boats, then it is really extreme. Paragliding, if you use a set of beginner's parachutes (slow, poor maneuverability, but safe) and just sit on the sky and goof off, it's just as safe, but if you pursue fancy maneuvers and go for a big 360 or even 720-degree slalom, that's really extreme.

Before we talk about the wisdom of surfing, let's define surfing.

What does it mean to surf? Many people say, "Isn't surfing just a sport? It's just taking a surfboard and flying around on the water. Wrong.

Surfing, the basic definition of the sport, the principle of surfing: the sea wind will transfer energy to the waves, resulting in waves, the gravity of the sea water and let the sea surface has a wave of kinetic energy to restore the wind and waves.

That is, the waves surge, the wind makes the waves surge, but the Earth's gravity makes the water tend to calm. This contradiction between surging and calming creates waves, so the water particles begin to squeeze each other and crush each other, creating pressure inside the sea, which creates water and waves.

This creates a synchronized movement of water and waves, a movement that transfers energy to the surfboard and the surfer for gliding across the water.

Note that surfing is not the human force that makes you glide across the water, it is the force of the waves that makes you glide across the water. The waves aren't the fundamental force either, it's the wind, and it's the energy of the wind that causes the waves.

There is no wave without wind, no wind without waves, the wind makes the waves fluctuate, but the earth's gravity makes the waves calm, and out of this contradiction comes the wave, and the wave is a kind of energy, and this is the definition of surfing. Don't ever think that surfing is a human skill, surfing is a wave skill.

So what is the first wisdom of surfing? Three words, recognize the wind.

Surfing, an adrenaline-charged dance with waves, demands surfers patiently wait for the perfect wave. Whether prone or sitting, they meticulously align their boards as suitable waves approach.

Paddling with determination, surfers strive to gain enough speed to stay ahead of oncoming waves. When the waves finally propel the board into a slide, surfers rise gracefully, using their center of gravity and limbs to control direction.